Identifying sources and types of collagens used in the cosmetic industry

Collagen is a key structural protein in the extracellular matrix, assuming an indispensable role in maintaining skin integrity, elasticity and hydration. It is widely distributed in connective tissues, including the skin, tendons and cartilage, where it provides structural support and facilitates tissue repair. Notably, natural collagen production declines with age, leading to visible signs of skin aging such as wrinkles, loss of firmness, and dryness. Hence, collagen is a highly sought-after ingredient in the cosmetic industry, incorporated into a variety of skincare products and medical aesthetic treatments aimed at restoring youthful skin properties.

A review published in the Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology, reported that collagen used in cosmetics is derived from both natural and synthetic sources. Natural sources primarily include bovine, porcine and marine collagen, offer unique structural and functional properties. Among them, marine collagen has gained popularity due to its higher absorption rate and lower risk of disease transmission. Meanwhile, artificially synthesized collagen, including recombinant collagen and hydrolyzed collagen peptides, provides alternative sources with enhanced purity, biocompatibility, and targeted functionality. These collagen variants have been extensively utilized in cosmetic formulations such as face creams, serums, masks, oral supplements and injectable fillers.

Functionally, collagen improves skin hydration, elasticity and overall appearance. It serves as a natural moisturizer, forming a protective barrier that reduces transepidermal water loss. Additionally, collagen has antioxidant and anti-aging properties, which help in neutralizing free radicals and slowing the degradation of skin proteins. Topical applications, including collagen-infused cosmetics, focus on replenishing moisture and enhancing skin firmness, while oral collagen supplements aim to stimulate endogenous collagen synthesis.

In medical aesthetics, collagen injections and fillers are used for wrinkle reduction, tissue volumization and post-surgical skin repair, further expanding its applications.

Nonetheless, despite its advantages and widespread use, collagen-based products face challenges related to stability, bioavailability and long-term effectiveness. Recent research efforts focus on improving collagen formulations through advanced technologies such as nano-collagen delivery systems and bioengineered collagen with enhanced structural integrity. Ongoing studies in the field aim to refine the extraction and synthesis of collagen to minimize the risks of immunogenic reactions and disease transmission associated with animal-derived collagen. Additionally, exploring the molecular mechanisms underlying the effects of different collagen subtypes on skin health is expected to yield new insights into personalized skincare and dermatological applications.

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Contact the author: Sheng Xiong, HInstitute of Biomedicine and National Engineering Research Center of Genetic Medicine, College of Life Science and Technology, Jinan University, Guangzhou 510632, PR China. xsh_jnu@hotmail.com

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