Exploring sea buckthorn polysaccharides for next-generation skincare applications

The skin is the largest organ in the human body and the body's primary defense against the external environment. However, due to its extensive surface area, it is highly vulnerable to exposure and potential injury from a variety of external causes, including UV radiation, which can cause skin barrier irregularities, melanin deposition, microbial invasion and skin aging.

Polysaccharides, which are primary active macromolecules derived from medicinal plants, have gained significant attention in the cosmetic industry. Their low toxicity, lack of residue and drug resistance make them particularly feasible for use. Research suggests that plant polysaccharides possess strong natural antioxidant properties, contributing to their potential anti-aging effects on the skin.

In a study published in the Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology, a team of researchers in China explored the in vitro antioxidant potential of sea buckthorn polysaccharides.

“We isolated three purified polysaccharide fractions from sea buckthorn crude polysaccharide by DEAE-52 anion exchange method,” explains senior and corresponding author Yongmin Zhang. “Thermogravimetric analysis showed that all four polysaccharides had good thermal stability.”

Notably, in vitro antioxidant activity studies showed that the polysaccharides have certain reducing ability, relatively good scavenging activity against superoxide anion and DPPH radicals and good scavenging ability against ABTS radicals.

At low concentrations, these polysaccharides outperformed vitamin C in eliminating free radicals and displayed excellent reducing capabilities,” adds Zhang.

To characterize the properties of the polysaccharides, the researchers employed various analytical techniques, including X-ray diffractometry, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, thermogravimetric analysis and high-performance gel permeation chromatography.

“Based on our findings, we believe sea buckthorn polysaccharides have strong potential for application in antioxidant and anti-aging functional cosmetics,” concludes Zhang.

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Contact the author: Yongmin Zhang，Inner Mongolia University Research Center for Glycochemistry of Characteristic Medicinal Resources, School of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering, Inner Mongolia University, Hohhot, 010021, China.，yongmin.zhang@upmc.fr

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