But recent advances in hair dyes made by chemists are not only benefiting teenagers, who want to stand out, according to the weekly news magazine, published by the American Chemical Society, the world's largest scientific society. Chemists have developed more conventional dyes that last up to six weeks and they have designed conditioners and shampoos to give a "boost" to colors and keep them from fading.
C&EN reports that with these improvements, hair dyeing has become one of the fastest growing segments of the personal care market. U.S. retail sales of home dyeing kits grew at double-digit rates in the 1990s and hit $1.6 billion in 2001, estimates industry consultant Kline & Co. The global hair dye market is now at some $7.2 billion, according to market research firm Euromonitor.
L'Oréal has about half of the U.S. hair dye market and the Clairol unit of Procter & Gamble controls 40 percent, says Meyer R. Rosen, president of Interactive Consulting. Dye suppliers say interest in hair dyeing is growing so fast that they expect other consumer products companies to enter the market.
Kline Project Manager Carrie Bonner says that a recent study of consumer buying habits showed that 37 percent of those surveyed had used hair dyes in the previous year and that 42 percent of American women and 25 percent of American men use dyes. Hair dyes are most popular among people aged 16-20 (48 percent), with the next largest group of users in the 40-49 range (45 percent). Only 24 percent of those over 60 use hair dyes.
To satisfy the variety of users, companies are making three basic types of dyes — "permanent," semi-permanent and temporary. The majority of dyes sold are the permanent two-part dyes that can last up to six weeks, C&EN says.
Oxidation, or combining the solution with oxygen, is the key to the whole coloring process. The first step involves the use of a solution consisting of dyes and dye intermediates in a liquid ammonia mixture generally containing soap, detergents and conditioning agents. The second step involves a hydrogen peroxide solution often called the developer. Users mix both parts before applying to their hair.
The mixture swells the hair and, at the same time, bleaches your natural color and "develops" the oxidative dye in the solution as it penetrates the hair shaft. Many kits also include a conditioner.
For those who already consider colors like "electric blue" passé, meanwhile, C&EN reports that there are even newer products like one from Tish & Snooky's Manic Panic. It's a styling gel for streaking, tipping or adding splashes of color to hair, including sterling silver and metallic blues and reds.
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Chemical & Engineering News